Jessner peel: everything you need to know about the procedure

In the practice of cosmetologists, there are more and more ways to preserve youthful skin and cope with its imperfections. Some seem exotic, such as the Jessner peel procedure. What is she? Is it worth doing it and why? How does it differ from other types of peeling, and can it be done at home?

Olga Degtyareva , a dermatovenerologist and cosmetologist at the MEDSI Clinical Diagnostic Center on Krasnaya Presnya, answers the questions .

Features of peeling

The essence of Jessner peeling, or the Hollywood method of cleansing the skin, which received its second name due to the popularity of the option among stars, is simple. The active mixture is applied to the skin, wait up to 12 hours, and the composition is removed by rinsing with water.

There is a superficial, medium and deep Jessner cleaning option. The difference between the intensity of the effect can be not only in the exposure time, but also in the number of layers of the active product applied. The procedure parameters that are suitable in a particular case will be determined by the cosmetologist.

The composition of Jessner's peeling is also not complicated. The mixture contains:

• lactic acid (14–20%);
• salicylic acid (14%);
• resorcinol (10–14%).

Manufacturers of professional cosmetics often make changes to the composition, supplementing the classic parameters with components that have a beneficial effect, enhancing and differentiating the result of the procedure.

Note! Considering the simplicity of the composition and method of execution, many are confident that the procedure can be easily carried out at home. Exposure is possible, but not safe. Wrong actions can lead to complications.

Components included in the peeling

The procedure we are considering is quite gentle on the surface of the skin. It is often used as a superficial type, but some specialists can also use it for deeper effects. Therefore, the drugs used may differ significantly.

If we consider the traditional recipe, the composition includes resorcinol, acetylsalicylic and purified lactic acid. In this case, based on the required depth of exposure, you can change the concentration of lactic acid: from 14 to 20%.

Changes can be made to the lactic acid concentration

This substance copes well with inflammatory processes occurring in the skin and stimulates the production of vital moisture.

On a note! The strength of the effect is directly related to the number of layers of the drug applied to the epidermal part of the skin.

Acetylsalicylic acid stimulates the removal of keratinized epithelial cells. This process is called exfoliation. Acting together with lactic acid, this substance allows you to get rid of pathogenic microorganisms and causative agents of various infections.

Resorcinol is used for similar purposes - to kill bacteria and have a tanning effect on the skin. Therefore, this substance is very often used in the correction of various dermatological diseases.

Resorcinol kills bacteria

Indications for use

For the first time, a remedy combining lactic and salicylic acids was invented by the ship's doctor M. Jessner, which is why it later received its name. The substance of the classic composition in the form of aftershave lotion was used as an antiseptic, which further improves the appearance and quality of the skin.

Currently, the cleansing technique has long been used for professional treatment, providing sanitization and rejuvenating results. Jessner peeling is prescribed by cosmetologists to combat:

• freckles, age spots;
• stable results of mechanical damage to tissues (post-acne, scars, scars);
• excessive keratinization of the integument;
• persistent stains (acne, comedones);
• inflammation without pus (acne);
• enlarged pores;
• increased sebum secretion;
• signs of tissue withering (loss of tone, density);
• visible signs of aging (wrinkles, ptosis).

The cleansing option is not recommended until you reach 21 years of age. At a younger age, it is better to get by with a fruit or glycolic exfoliating composition. The Jessner prescription procedure is most popular as an early anti-aging program (after 25–30 years).

Intervention can be carried out on any type of skin as prescribed by a cosmetologist. For those with sensitive skin, only a superficial version of the procedure is indicated.

If the skin is excessively dry, the cosmetologist may suggest preliminary mesotherapy and biorevitalization, which help saturate the tissues with moisture and eliminate unnecessary vulnerability.

Efficiency of the technique

The severity of the Jessner peeling results depends on the depth of the effect.

Superficial cleaning (applying 1 layer) will exfoliate the stratum corneum of skin cells, refresh the appearance, cleanse, narrow pores, minimize pigment formations, and various minor defects.

Medium exposure (up to 3 layers) will not only cleanse and refresh the surface of the skin, but can also significantly lighten or remove age spots, affect pronounced expression wrinkles, and eliminate shallow scars. After the procedure, the likelihood of new acne lesions and blackheads appearing decreases.

Deep cleaning (from 5 layers) is aimed at working with severe defects. After successful restoration, facial wrinkles, unevenness, scars, and pigment spots abundantly distributed on the skin disappear, large wrinkles and folds are minimized, and the oval shape is tightened. The skin looks completely renewed, the patient enjoys a youthful, blooming appearance.

You won't be able to get the perfect result quickly. Jessner cleansing is carried out in courses. An individual program will be suggested by a cosmetologist after assessing the skin condition. Typically, for dry, sensitive skin, 2-4 treatments are carried out, for oily, problematic skin - up to 6-10 procedures.

Advice. A scheme of increasing the depth of penetration of the composition is often used (superficial effect at the beginning of the course, deep at the end).

Popular product brands

To carry out Jessner peeling at home, you can buy the ingredients at the pharmacy, make the composition yourself, and perform the procedure. This is fraught with various errors leading to complications. Even professionals do not risk reducing the cost of intervention in this way. Moreover, there are many ready-made compositions for high-quality Jessner peeling:

• Onmacabim. A classic version from the Israeli brand Onmakabim. The product not only thoroughly cleanses the skin and fights minor imperfections, but also has a noticeable lifting effect. The substance has a strong antibacterial and antiseborrheic effect. A 30 ml bottle costs 3.7 thousand rubles.

• Janssen Cosmetics. The soft version of the German brand Inspira med mfa is suitable for dry, sensitive skin. The action of the product is aimed at cleansing and eliminating minor imperfections. A 50 ml bottle costs from 2 thousand rubles.

• Sesderma. Medicines from the Mediderma Melaspeel series are suitable for solving various problems. French Sesderma products can eliminate severe acne, seborrheic keratosis, lentigo, melasma, and scars. The composition contains lactic, salicylic, citric acids. 60 ml bottles of the substance are sold for 7–8 thousand rubles.

• New peel. A popular option is the modified Jessner Anti Aging Gel peel. A mixture of lactic, salicylic, and citric acids promote tissue renewal and rejuvenation. A 50 ml bottle sells for 3 thousand rubles.

• Peel medical (BCmed). Classic version made in the USA. The product is suitable for obtaining a rejuvenating effect, improving tissue health, and smoothing the relief. A 30 ml bottle is sold for 2.7 thousand rubles.

• MedicControl Peel. A popular option is Salicylicpeel JS in the form of a lotion with a classic composition, but with a reduced content of lactic acid (10%). The product from the Russian company Martinex is characterized by a strong exfoliating and depigmenting effect. The drug MCP is popular for the fight against comedones and acne. A 30 ml bottle costs 2.5 thousand rubles.

• Enerpeel JR. Italian Enerpil has a classic composition with a high content of lactic acid (20%). This option is characterized by a healing result of the work. A 70 ml bottle of the product costs 1.3 thousand rubles.

It is recommended to completely entrust the choice of substance to a cosmetologist. The option of a product with a suitable composition, the nuances of the procedure depend on the individual characteristics of the patient.

Prices and brands of peelings

The cost of one Jessner peeling procedure ranges from 1,500 to 6,000 rubles, depending on the category and prestige of the beauty salon.
The relatively low cost, coupled with high efficiency, makes Jessner peeling very popular both among clients and among cosmetologists. Its implementation does not require expensive equipment, and the procedure itself is very simple and short.

However, simplicity and accessibility pushes many patients to the “home option”, which they try to do on their own. Without experience and special knowledge of the structure of the skin, injuries and chemical burns may occur. Therefore, you should trust your face to professionals and not skimp on your own health and beauty.

Preparations that can be offered in a cosmetology clinic for Jessner peeling: Mediccontrolpeel (Tuscany Laboratory, Russia), Mediderma (Spain), Medpeel (Kira Labs, USA), Allura Esthetics (USA), PCA Skin (USA), Enerpeel (Italy ), NanoPeel (Seventy BG, Italy), Natura Bisse (Spain), Martinex (Russia).

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Reviews of the Jessner Peeling procedure for the face

• Lisa S. | 2014-02-11 13:25:46 I have post-acne, I tried to remove it with Jessner peeling, there is a result, but I would like more. The cosmetologist advised me to do TCA peeling. I will try.
• Taisiya |
  2014-02-10 16:23:41 I was hoping for better results from the Jessner peeling; there are fewer blackheads and pimples, but new ones still appear.
• Marusya |
  2014-02-08 16:18:54 Jessner peeling helped me remove acne and traces of them. When I was a teenager, I was covered in acne; now, of course, there are fewer of them, but I wish there were none at all. The effect appeared immediately after the first procedure; I only did five. The spots and redness went away, the pores narrowed a little, the pimples dried out, and my face became pleasant to look at. I am very pleased and recommend it to everyone.
• Evgenia |
  2014-02-07 22:58:44 I did 4 Jessner peels at intervals of a month - I’m happy with the result. After the peeling, the face was red, the skin was very peeling and peeling, I couldn’t even smile, but after the first procedure the result was already visible. I had very oily, porous skin and acne; my skin became oily at such a speed that I did not have time to wipe it with wipes. After Jessner, the oily sheen practically disappeared, and acne significantly decreased, new ones practically do not appear, red spots disappeared, scars on the cheeks smoothed out, pores decreased by about 30-40%, the face became cleaner and more uniform in color, the skin felt very pleasant to the touch.

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Preparatory stage

Preparation for Jessner peeling is an important stage that determines the quality of the result. It is recommended to start the process by visiting a cosmetologist. The doctor will tell you whether the intervention is possible. If you are focused on carrying out the procedure, the cosmetologist will tell you about the principles of preparation:

• 7–14 days before the expected session, it is necessary to supplement regular care with products containing a small amount of fruit acids or preliminarily perform a light superficial peeling;
• mandatory use of cosmetics with a high sun protection factor;
• conducting an allergy test to the substance selected for the basic procedure (short-term application of the composition to the bend of the elbow, wrist).

Maintaining health, especially the integrity of the integument, is also considered an important point in the preparatory stage. The details of the intervention and course will be determined by the cosmetologist. Jessner peeling is recommended to be carried out in the autumn-winter period.

Carrying out the procedure

On the day of the procedure, the patient is not recommended to wear makeup or use any cosmetic care products. The intervention involves sequentially performing the following actions:

1. Superficial cleansing using a mild product with a neutral ph. The detergent composition does not require long exposure: application, removal by rinsing with warm water.
2. Degreasing the surface. They use special formulations with the ability to break down lipids, regular alcohol or lotions containing it.
3. Application of the active composition. The active substance is distributed over dry skin. The lip area and eyelids are not affected. The product should cover the surface evenly. Burning and tingling may occur. Moderate symptoms are acceptable. Within 2–5 minutes, white crystals form on the surface.
4. Increasing the depth of impact. To perform a medium, deep version of the Jessner peel, you will need to apply 2–5 layers of the composition. After the first layer has dried (6–10 minutes), the process is repeated. It is recommended to stop after applying 5 layers. The cosmetologist adjusts the depth of exposure, focusing on the skin's reaction.
5. Ending the process. After the last layer has dried, the composition is neutralized, washed off or left to act for up to 12 hours. It all depends on the condition of the patient’s skin and the product used. Typically, peeling is sealed with a special composition, which is characterized by an analgesic, soothing, and antiseptic effect. After waiting the time specified by the cosmetologist (how long to keep is determined individually), the patient will have to independently wash off the remaining substance with water. The cleansed skin is lubricated with a healing agent (Panthenol, Solcoseryl) or a cream recommended by the doctor.

The end of the Jesner cleansing session in the cosmetologist’s office is an explanation of the principles of further skin care. The doctor indicates a list of restrictions and stipulates rules of behavior during the recovery period.

Healing period

The severity of the condition after peeling using a milk-salicylic mixture depends on the individual reactions of the body and the depth of the effect performed. You may feel pain, itching, the skin takes on a pinkish, brownish-purple tint, the face looks unattractive: it swells, swells.

Usually the surface is covered with a thin film, under which redness is hidden - the result of a chemical burn. The outer crust gradually dries out and turns into a kind of brown shell or containing dark spots. This is a temporary phenomenon. After successful completion of rehabilitation (5–10 days), the skin becomes healthy and renewed.

Recovery photos by day

Proper skin care is important for proper recovery after peeling. The cosmetologist will warn against:

• steaming (visiting a bathhouse, sauna, washing in hot water);
• tanning (solarium, open sun);
• active sweating (sports, physical work);
• swimming in a pool, public or open water;
• applying makeup (even foundation or usual cream is prohibited);
• violation of the formed crust, tearing off pieces of exfoliating tissue.

Strict restrictions apply for up to 1 month after the procedure, but to obtain the highest quality results, it is better to abstain from prohibited activities for up to 2-3 months. You can return to using decorative cosmetics after complete exfoliation. The fact that your skin itches will have to be tolerated.

For proper skin care, avoid the use of regular creams and other cosmetics. Until the crusts completely disappear, it is recommended to care for the skin as follows: washing in slightly acidified water, applying to the surface (up to 5-6 times a day) a pharmaceutical version of regenerating ointments (Solcoseryl, Bepanten, Panthenol). This will help speed up the completion of the rehabilitation period.

Additionally, there is no need to smear the skin with anything. Regular use of sun protection becomes mandatory. The product should have a high SPF factor and should be applied when going outside in any weather, regardless of the planned duration of the walk.

Active peeling after Jessner peeling begins on days 2–3 and lasts up to 4–7 days.

Important! The deeper the impact, the longer and more painful the recovery. Compliance with restrictions and proper care will facilitate the process and protect against complications.

What to put on your face

During the first 6 days after the Jessner peel procedure, decorative cosmetics should be avoided.

Expert opinion

Elena Apostolyuk

Cosmetologist

It is necessary to prepare the skin in advance. Before the procedure, use creams and lotions with fruit acids. This will help soften and adapt the epidermis to subsequent chemical exposure.

Care after a Jessner peel will be painless if you first consult with your doctor about the use of various remedies that will promote rapid recovery. Be sure to include moisturizer, sunscreen, and herbal oils during the rehabilitation period.

Complex care includes formulations with hyaluronic and pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid. To restore the skin and maintain mineral balance, the presence of amino acids, sodium and calcium is necessary.

Features of carrying out at home

Jessner peeling is not recommended to be performed on your own. A home procedure can have unpleasant consequences. As a last resort, before carrying out the intervention, consultation with a cosmetologist is required. Don’t expect that trying to prepare the mixture yourself will be a great savings. This is fraught with complications.

Even if you strictly follow the instructions. It is better to use ready-made professional peelings, a description of the rules for use of which is always included with the product. You should apply no more than 1-2 layers of the substance, do not leave the composition on the skin for long periods of time. This procedure does not entail heavy rehabilitation and will give mild positive results without complications.

Composition specifics

Experts talk about the following properties of the substances included in the preparation used for peeling.

1. Salicylic acid. It perfectly kills pathogenic microorganisms in the skin, dries it a little, and removes excess sebum. It provokes the destruction of molecular intercellular connections, forcing the body to synthesize keratin in sufficient quantities.
2. Lactic acid. Enriches skin structures with moisture, softens, produces collagen fibers. In addition, lactic acid is involved in the production of moisture, its distribution and circulation throughout the body.
3. Resorcinol. This substance is necessary for the influence of salicylic and lactic acids to manifest itself to the proper extent and to enhance the results they provide. Resorcinol is also an excellent assistant in the correction of inflammatory processes and redness.

The components of the product are quite effective

How Jessner Peel works on the skin:

• the use of lactic acid softens the stratum corneum of the epidermis, making it more susceptible to various influences;
• moisture inside is bound, leaving the upper soft layers of the skin;
• salicylic acid provokes exfoliation of dead cells;
• Resorcinol increases the effect of the acids used and kills pathogenic microorganisms.

Skin becomes better after the procedure

Precautionary measures

Jessner peeling has a wide range of contraindications, careful attention to which will protect you from unpleasant consequences. The procedure cannot be performed if:

• intolerance to the components of the solution;
• pregnancy;
• rosacea, the presence of large moles and other formations in the treatment area;
• exacerbation of herpes;
• skin diseases requiring preliminary treatment (demodex, psoriasis, eczema);
• oncology of any location;
• open wounds on the surface (scratches, abrasions, opened pimples);
• fresh tan;
• inflammation, tissue irritation;
• acute course of any disease;
• taking retinoids, products containing menthol, camphor;
• hormonal imbalance (medication, lactation, menstruation, menopause).

It is recommended to postpone the procedure in case of general ailments. Cosmetologists do not undertake interventions in the summer. Optimal period: from autumn to spring. It is recommended to complete the course completely in March. Dark-skinned people should think carefully about the advisability of performing a Jessner peel. The procedure can result in the appearance of a demarcation line that spoils the appearance.

If contraindications are excluded and all the cosmetologist’s recommendations are followed, the occurrence of complications is minimal. Normal reactions preceding the final result are the appearance of:

• redness;
• swelling;
• excessive peeling;
• dark spots, red-brown crust.

The phenomena are accompanied by moderate pain, burning, itching. All symptoms normally disappear within 7–10 days. If large subcutaneous pimples appear, spots that do not go away for a long time, signs of infection (severe pain, fever, suppuration, induration, extensive swelling), or suspected allergies (rash, persistent itching, long-lasting redness), it is recommended to consult a cosmetologist.

Note! The absence of peeling and weak skin convergence should also not be alarming. This is not a signal of low quality intervention. This circumstance is typical when carrying out surface exposure (1–2 layers).

Possible complications after Jessner peel

The goal of any peel is to remove the surface layer of skin cells. With a chemical peel, a type of which is the Jessner peel, nothing more than a first-degree burn of the facial skin occurs, followed by rejection of the surface layer of the epidermis.

Unfortunately, complications are much more common with chemical peels. They are usually divided into two groups - expected and unexpected.

Expected complications of peeling

- these are problems that can manifest themselves to varying degrees in the majority of patients. These include:

• Erythema.

Redness of the treated area after the procedure. With Jessner peeling, moderate erythema persists for up to two days.

• Peeling.

An inevitable side effect of peeling. Jessner peeling causes coarse flaky peeling, the best remedy for which is to actively moisturize the skin.

• Swelling.

This is a vascular reaction of inflamed skin, since its irritation causes increased capillary permeability. Occurs on the second day after the peeling procedure; can last up to three days. An experienced cosmetologist, when selecting the concentration of acids and the number of peeling layers, will certainly take into account the characteristics of the patient’s skin. Thanks to this, the severity of edema can be significantly reduced.

• Darkening of the skin.

After about 7-10 days, the patient safely forgets about it - it’s enough for the peeling to end.

• Skin hypersensitivity.

This is also normal and natural: after peeling, the skin becomes tender and vulnerable.
In rare cases, it lasts up to 12 months. Unexpected or infrequent complications of the Jessner peel
are problems that are not related to the skin's normal reactions to the procedure. They can negatively affect the aesthetic result of peeling, and in severe cases, even jeopardize the patient’s health.

• Infectious complications

: strepto-, staphyloderma, which occurs when the rules of asepsis are violated during the procedure. They may require the prescription of antibiotics in the form of ointments locally and even systemically - in tablets or injections.

• Herpetic infection.

In the acute period, the presence of herpetic eruptions is a contraindication to Jessner peeling. However, having had herpes, a person most often retains the virus in the body in the nerve ganglia and fibers. The face is an area with increased innervation, so stress, which is peeling for the facial skin, can “awaken” the dormant virus and provoke rashes. It is necessary to warn the cosmetologist in advance if the patient often has relapses of herpes; in such cases, during peeling, taking antiviral drugs for prophylactic purposes is indicated.

• Allergy.

The components of the Jessner peel are selected in such a way that they themselves rarely cause allergic reactions. To exclude these reactions, a preliminary skin test is performed in an inconspicuous place. However, the skin after peeling is especially vulnerable, and some external irritants, which normally do not have a noticeable effect, can easily provoke severe itching, swelling, and hives. People prone to allergies should carefully consider how much Jessner peel they need. Perhaps their facial skin problems can be solved by other cosmetic interventions. If a decision is made in favor of peeling, the cosmetologist should recommend taking antiallergic medications.

Advantages and disadvantages

The Jessner peel is a superficial-medium type of exfoliating cleansing, as is the coral, yellow (retinoic) method of exfoliating the skin. TCA is already considered to have more serious effects. Exposure to a milk-salicylic mixture is called a less comfortable procedure than its analogues.

This is the main disadvantage of the option. Exposure requires mandatory preparation, significant rehabilitation, and does not exclude complications after exposure.

The advantages of Jessner peeling include the reasonable cost of the procedure. It is often lower than the retinol, coral exfoliation option. The method allows you to achieve effective results: getting rid of scars, wrinkles, skin tightening. The beneficial effect of the product is recognized as more noticeable than when using analogues.

Indications and contraindications

The peeling technique we are considering is suitable for both mature and young skin suffering from defects inherent in adolescence and youth.

Indications:

• pimples and traces of them;
• bright pigmentation of facial skin;
• bright wrinkles provoked by facial expressions;
• correction of scars and scarring;
• freckles.

You can get rid of skin defects thanks to the procedure

Contraindications:

• herpes;
• diabetes;
• cancer diseases;
• problems with the functioning of the immune system;
• women carrying a baby or breastfeeding it;
• mental problems of various types.

Contraindications should be taken into account

On a note! If these contraindications are not taken into account, the client will suffer from various complications - there may be an exacerbation of herpes, diabetes or cancer, as well as an allergic reaction.

If you want to achieve the best result, you can combine the procedure we are considering with TCA peeling and biorevitalization. If you approach the issue systematically, your face will look beautiful, fit and young.

Opinion of cosmetologists

Doctors are positive about using the procedure using the Jessner composition. The option gives tangible results; there are formulations that bring minimal discomfort. Prescriptions are made according to indications; some offer more gentle options.

The cosmetologist recognizes the danger of this option and is in no hurry to prescribe Jessner peeling.

The cosmetologist speaks positively about the results of Jessner cleansing.

The cosmetologist praises the product with a composition that has minimal side effects.

Patient reviews

Opinions about the option vary. Some patients notice dramatic results, repeatedly turn to Jessner peeling, and recommend others to try it. There are patients who expect more or do not see positive changes as a result of the intervention.

The patient does not notice the result of the procedure.

The patient liked the result and recommends the option.